Los Venerables Hospital

You are at the Hospital de los Venerables, in the heart of Santa Cruz. Built at the end of the 17th century, it was a home for elderly and infirm priests who had given their life to the Church. The architect was Leonardo de Figueroa, one of the masters of Sevillan Baroque. The first thing you'll see is the courtyard: a small jewel, with a sunken fountain at the centre, white columns and a serene balance of brick, water and light. From here you reach the chapel, covered with frescoes by Valdés Leal, his son Lucas and other local masters. It is one of the most complete Baroque ensembles in the city. Pause at the main altarpiece, at the painted pendentives, at the gilded details; every inch has intention. For years the former hospital wings hosted the Centro Velázquez, with works by the Sevillan painter and other Golden Age figures. Ask at the entrance if that display is currently open. Visitor tip: pair the visit with a walk through Santa Cruz, which literally surrounds it. Come in the morning, before the tour groups, when the patio holds that clean light Baroque deserves. One of those places where Sevilla speaks softly, but says a lot.