Islamic, Christian and American Sevilla

Sevilla is a city of layers: every street holds at least three stories. The first is Roman Hispalis, founded by the river more than two thousand years ago. Columns and wall fragments still survive in the Alameda area and beneath the Metropol Parasol, where you can descend into the Antiquarium and walk over original mosaics. The second layer is Muslim Isbiliya. For over five hundred years the Almoravids and, above all, the Almohads made the city a shining capital: they built the great mosque whose minaret is today the Giralda; they raised the Alcázar palace, whose earliest walls you can still see; and they laid out a plan of narrow streets, inner courtyards and channelled water that lives on in Santa Cruz and the historic centre. The third layer is the Sevilla of the New World. In 1503 the House of Trade was founded here, and for two centuries every ounce of silver, gold, spice and every book from the Americas had to pass through this port. Sevilla filled with palaces, Baroque churches and art collectors; Murillo, Zurbarán and Velázquez all painted here. By the early 17th century, over fifteen per cent of the population was enslaved or of African descent — a heritage that still marks the city. Tip: to feel these three Sevillas in one hour, visit the Antiquarium under Las Setas, climb the Giralda and end in front of the Archivo de Indias next to the Cathedral. Three stones, three civilisations, one single city.